Fennel Lessons

BACK TO BASICS | by JEAN GALTON

IF YOU’VE NEVER TASTED FRESH FENNEL you’re missing out. It’s a crisp, aromatic vegetable, tasting like licorice but sweeter and less powerful. You can eat it raw (my kids’ absolute favorite) or grill, braise or roast it; the flavor is less intense when cooked but still enthralling.

© ANGIE NORWOOD BROWNE

When you buy fennel, you’ll notice that it comes in two shapes. The fat, rounded bulbs are a bit juicier and the longer, flattened bulbs have a more concentrated flavor. Both shapes are equally good: Just be sure the bulb is firm to the touch and shiny. Rinse it and cut off the top stalks and any tough outer layers. Save the fronds (the wispy leaf parts at the top) and slice off the root end. Cut the bulb lengthwise and thinly slice it, either crosswise or lengthwise. If you want it sliced extra thin, you can try slicing it on a mandoline. Either way, you can’t go wrong throwing it into this salad.

Fennel Salad
Prep: 10 minutes
Serves 4

1 seedless cucumber, cut lengthwise in half and thinly sliced
1 large bulb fennel, cut lengthwise in half and thinly sliced, fronds reserved
1 shallot, minced
2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon
2 tablespoons champagne or white-wine vinegar
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Combine all the ingredients except the fennel fronds in a medium bowl and toss to mix. Chop 1 tablespoon of the reserved fennel fronds and sprinkle on top. Serve.