Talking Turkey

SUSTAINABLE LIVING | by CELESTE TELL

THIS YEAR OUR THANKSGIVING IS COMING TOGETHER AT THE LAST MINUTE ― a just-in-time, organic evolution of who’s here, there, everywhere, and when, and how many people fit around whose table. This year it is at my house and I have not yet ordered my turkey. Of course I want the perfect turkey: one that will taste great and be raised in the most healthful, sustainable and earth-friendly manner.

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For all but vegetarians, the turkey is the centerpiece of the holiday meal. It used to be the choice was binary: meat or vegetarian. A quick survey today left me mind-boggled. The regional co-op had four different kinds, Whole Foods had six, my local butcher had two. And naturally, costs per pound vary as the birds get more “specialized.” Here is my cheat sheet, from conventional to sustainable and everything in between:

• Fresh vs. Frozen. Frozen turkeys need time-consuming defrosting, and freezing can adversely impact texture and taste. Choose fresh if you can.
• Self-basting. These birds are injected with additional ingredients — from water to salt, fat, broth and other “approved additives” ― making them moist and tender.
• Free-range. These can be conventional or organic. The USDA’s definition has become controversial as it can easily be gamed.
• Organic. The USDA’s National Organic Program requires that turkeys labeled “organic” be certified by a USDA-accredited certifying agency.
• Kosher. Must be raised and processed under rabbinical supervision. Kosher turkeys are generally pre-brined.
• Heirloom. Sustainably raised. The American Livestock and Breeds Conservancy describes these as the “quintessential American poultry”.

Makes me wonder why we make our lives so complicated. At the end of the day, what really matters is joining with friends and family to give thanks for what we have and share our table with each other. Happy Thanksgiving!

(And oh, I still haven’t decided which kind to get.)