Twice Baked, To Go

CELEBRATIONS | by JEAN GALTON

WHO KNEW THAT BISCOTTI, NOW A HOLIDAY FAVORITE, was once a legendary road food? Named “bis” (Latin for twice) and “cotto” (for cooked), the Romans baked biscotti to take on journeys, something that could be kept in toga pockets while they conquered empires and journeyed to foreign lands. Baked once to cook the dough and a second time to dry the biscuits out resulted in a flavorful, dried cookie that could survive months on the go.

© ANGIE NORWOOD BROWNE

Of course, you don’t have to travel anywhere to enjoy these chocolate-dipped beauties. Just give them a dip in a shot of espresso or a glass of vin santo. And enjoy the sweet crunch.

Pistachio and Dried-Cranberry Biscotti Dipped in Dark Chocolate
Makes 4 dozen biscotti

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup sugar
2 teaspoons orange zest
1/2 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 large eggs, at room temperature
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3/4 cup unsalted pistachio nuts, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup dried cranberries, coarsely chopped
6 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, divided: 4 ounces coarsely chopped, 2 ounces in large chunks
1 tablespoon walnut or hazelnut oil

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Have ready another unlined baking sheet.

2. In a bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder, coriander and salt. In a food processor, combine the sugar and orange zest and process until finely chopped. Transfer the sugar mixture to a large bowl, add the butter and, using an electric mixer on medium speed, beat until light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat in the vanilla. Reduce the mixer speed to low and gradually beat in the flour mixture just until blended. Using a rubber spatula, fold in the pistachios and dried cranberries.

3. Divide the dough in half and place both portions on the parchment-lined baking sheet. Quickly form each half into a log 12 inches long and 2 inches in diameter. Place the logs at least 3 inches apart on the baking sheet and smooth them with dampened fingers. Bake the logs, rotating the pan 180 degrees halfway through the baking time, until the logs begin to crack on top, about 35 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool on the baking sheet for 10 minutes. Leave the oven on.

4. Transfer the logs to a cutting board and discard the parchment. Using a sharp, serrated knife, cut each log on the diagonal into slices 1/2-inch wide. Arrange the slices flat on the unlined baking sheets and bake until lightly browned on both sides, about 16 minutes. Let the coolies cool on the baking sheets on a wire rack.

5. While the biscotti are cooling, melt the 4 ounces of chopped chocolate with the walnut oil in the top of a double boiler set over (but not touching) simmering water. Off the beat, add the remaining chunks of chocolate and stir just until the mixture is barely warm. Remove any un-melted chunks. At an angle, quickly dip one end of each cookie into the chocolate mixture, then return to the baking sheet. Let stand until the chocolate is completely set, about 30 minutes.