Spicy Comfort

PASSIONS | by JEAN GALTON

WHEN I LIVED IN NEW YORK CITY, I ATE LOTS AND LOTS OF SESAME NOODLES. They were an easy-to-find comfort food on the days when you really needed a bowl of spicy carbohydrates.

© ANGIE NORWOOD BROWNE

Now that I live in Seattle, Chinese takeout is more complicated. So I make my own.

Sesame Noodles
Serves 4

3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon minced ginger
1/2 pound dried Chinese noodles or spaghetti
3 tablespoons tahini (sesame paste)
3 tablespoons soy sauce
3 tablespoons black Chinese vinegar or balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon chili oil
1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil
1/2 seedless cucumber, cut into fine matchsticks
2 scallions, cut into fine shreds
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
Toasted sesame seeds

In a heavy nonstick skillet, stir the sugar, garlic and ginger together and cook over medium heat until the sugar melts and caramelizes, about three minutes. Scrape the mixture onto parchment paper and let harden.

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil and cook the noodles until they are al dente. Drain well and transfer to a bowl.

At the same time, combine the sugar mixture, tahini, soy sauce, vinegar, chili oil and sesame oil in a blender or food processor and blend until a paste forms.

Pour the dressing over the noodles, top with the cucumber, scallions and cilantro and toss to mix. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and serve.